Before I forget: I have taken 14,000 + photos since I got my laptop in November... I severely underestimated how many photos I would be taking on this trip, and it's not even over yet!!! Love you all!!!!
"I hate waiting; especially international waiting..." –Teneya
"I can't wait to go back to China to see the Berlin Wall..." –Teneya, in one of her moments of heightened brilliance :-P
March 26, 2008: Day 63
Wow. Day 63?? This trip has gone by so quickly, and yet it feels like it has been an eternity... So many things have changed. I feel like the things I am doing are incredible, but sometimes I feel like I'm imprisoned on this ship. I still feel like I am in a dream from which I am unable to awaken—when will this feeling of not being entirely here end? I don't understand why I feel that way in the first place. Because of it, I feel like I'm not absorbing everything. Perhaps it will all hit me when I get home—I just hope it hits me at all. Anyway, I am very tired, so this update will be pretty short (at least in terms of how long my entries usually are)... Yesterday I watched two movies: my first Bollywood film (Gangster: a Love Story) and I watched, for the second time, Finding Neverland, which, again, made me cry; the ending is so touching. We had cultural pre-port for Vietnam, and it sounds like I'm going to have to be constantly on my guard against pickpockets and against offending someone and risking being jailed for minor offences or something. I sincerely hope that I will not offend someone... Apparently, in order to decline something, you have to say the Vietnamese equivalent of "yes-no," because "yes" is an indication of politeness, whether or not you are actually affirming something. I know I'm going to wind up saying "no" at some point, and I hope that they will not be too offended by my mistake... Anyway, they're all about politeness there, and I hope that I know enough about the culture to be aware of avoiding offending someone. Our interport student, whose name is Van, is such a sweet, funny young lady... She gave us useful information about internet cafes and where to go to get a dress made—something I plan on doing. Tomorrow, me, Caitlin, and the other ladies are going together to the tailor's, and then we're going to get $20 one-hour massages and $2 pedicures and manicures. Jealous? lol... Anyway, today I didn't do much... went to Global, it was pointless (nothing new in that statement)... called a special someone and all means of communication were blown for the rest of the day in the middle of conversing—typical. I'm so sick of not being able to communicate properly. It's literally starting to fray my nerves, and one of the most welcome comforts once I get home will be being able to abuse the internet as much as I so desire (expect me to be at the computer a lot for a couple days... no joke). I will be uploading photos on Facebook like a fiend, lol... anyway, back to my day—I sat around until I got ready for class and went to lunch with Brittany as usual—today was the first day in a while where all I could possibly bring myself to eat were carbohydrates—meat loaf for lunch? No thanks... The oranges were so good, though... I want to eat a whole container of raspberries when I get back—I miss berries so much! Then, I went to Transcendentalism, where Professor Edmundson told us for literally half the class about his hippie school teaching days at Woodstock College in Vermont (of course it's called "Woodstock" college...) where the two main things there were: nakedness (in both aspects of: having no clothes on, as well as being open and honest) and "juice" (meaning, love and encouragement that's given to everybody)... lol. It was a funny story. It didn't have much to do with Whitman's Leaves of Grass, but I enjoyed it nonetheless. I love that class so much because half of what we do is tell stories (about what we did in port, life stories, etc) because they tie in so conveniently to the philosophies we've been studying. Ok, so maybe I felt like writing a lot this time... My ears have started to hurt, which is very unfortunate, as we will be in Vietnam tomorrow... urgh. And I can't seem to find a chiropractor anywhere (except there is apparently a licensed chiropractor who is family on the ship, but she's back in the States right now and won't be back until who knows when... go figure), and my back has been spasming on and off since Malaysia. I didn't realize how much I depended on chiropractors, but apparently that's kind of necessary. I guess it makes sense when one considers the loads I carry on my back sometimes... but I also think I inherited Mom's bad back :-P anyway, I went to art and architecture, where we learned about Angkor Wat in Cambodia, and we got let out early. I love this lady because she keeps cancelling our scheduled quizzes because "we're all too busy for that kind of thing." We just have to write 3-4 pages every once in a while—easy. After that, I went with Caitlin and the ladies to dinner, where we had some Vietnamese dishes that were delicious. After that, me, Caitlin, and Rachel went up to the 7th deck to grab some peanut M&Ms (I never took much interest in them until this trip—I will forever be faithful to Twix, my favorite candy, but peanut M&Ms are pretty darn yummy) and look at the stars and talk. We moved to 7th deck forward, where we got accosted by the wind but it was enjoyable nonetheless, because so few people are up there, if at all, so it's nice to get away from everybody. We then went to logistical (aka mandatory) pre-port, which was hilarious as always (Kenn: "This is not Semester about Me, this is Semester at Sea..."), and now here I am, typing up the story of my life... Ok, I have to wake up at 4:30 am to watch us go up the Saigon River, where apparently we will see lots of little boats and local activity, so it'll be worth it. It's bed time. Love to you all (I miss you guys so much... you don't even know how many hugs you're going to get when we see each other again!)... Oh, and may I say that every time I hear Michael Jackson (they always manage to play it at every gathering in the Union before and after the events going on there...), I get a pang in my heart...
Michelle
March 31, 2008: Day 67 (eek!)
Today is our last day in Vietnam... So, Vietnam was quite amazing (not one of my favorites, though, like it seems to have become for a lot of people I've talked to—my favorites are India and South Africa so far). Let's see... first day there: I went with Teneya, Catherine, Kira, Heike, and Caitlin out first thing to go get our dresses made at a tailor—that took several hours because it was really hard to communicate and find a good price. I got an orange dress made for Nicole, and a long formal plum-colored dress for me. I gave them pictures of what I wanted. We then went to Pho 2000 for lunch to have our first taste of pho, which is a noodley soup that one should absolutely have whilst in Vietnam (I didn't think it was so great to make a big fuss over it, but it was still enjoyable nonetheless). The whole day I was feeling awful and terribly drowsy because I had gotten up early to watch the sunrise as we entered Vietnam (I sadly came to realize quite quickly that trying to see a sunrise in Ho Chi Minh City area is completely pointless because the pollution is so bad that you can't see the sky EVER), and it felt like I'd been drugged I was so tired. Poor Kira was really drowsy, too, because she'd had minor surgery the night before on an infected bugbite, and I think she was still feeling unwell from that. We then went to the Ben Thanh market, which is hot, stuffy, and is in very tight quarters, but has TONS of awesome stuff! That was really enjoyable and I bought tons of beautiful lacquerware. Then, Kira and I got separated from everyone else and we were sooo tired that we went back to the ship—in this port, because we were so far from downtown, SAS provided shuttles for us to get in and out of the city (which is super nice), but Kira and I were just way too tired to try to find the bus stop so we took a cyclo back to the ship, which is a bicycle with a reclining chair on wheels in the front, basically, and the biker goes at about 10 mph in 40 mph + traffic. It took almost an hour to get back because we were so far away, and as you can imagine, it was expensive (the guy told me the wrong amount like a jerk and then made me pay more when I got there... from then on I always use my calculator to confirm the number so there isn't a miscommunication—that calculator is one of the most valuable possessions I have, and keep it on me at all times), and he dropped me off at the wrong spot—it was within view of the ship, but you have to go several miles around to actually get to it from that point. I didn't know this and tried to walk to it (he dropped me off at the security checkpoint because he's not allowed to go any further) when it was dark out with almost nobody around—it was really sketchy. I didn't feel nervous, though, but kept on my guard... After a while of walking around to no avail, I found a security guard and begged him to take me on his motorbike to the ship, but he couldn't, so he called a cab for me, and I finally made it (and not in time for dinner on the ship, sadly, so I had to eat one of the cup of ramen noodle things I bought in Malaysia—I felt so miserable after that crazy ordeal)... After that, I went to bed, and then woke up at 4:00 am by the Field desk, calling to let me know that my Nha Trang trip was leaving in 5 minutes—eek!!! My alarm didn't go off... So, I had to literally change and rush up there in time (go figure—we didn't leave until 20 minutes later), and we had a 40 minute flight to Nha Trang and got picked up by our tour guide, Xoa (pronounced "wah"), who is by far the funniest and most amazing tour guide I've ever had (by the way, SAS trips always include a tour guide, which I think is absolutely ridiculous—for example, we'll have one for a 45 minute drive to the airport for goodness sake...)... His pronunciation of words was really funny sometimes—he'd say "eaxt" and "wext" for east and west... He also would joke around with one guy, Mark, and call him his sweetheart, and tell him that he wanted/needed/loved him and crazy stuff like that. He was such a crazy old man. Anyway, Nha Trang is absolutely gorgeous—it's a beach town. It's unfortunate, though, that it is highly commercialized... After visiting Long Son Pagoda to see the 16 meter high pure white Buddha (soooooo cool!!!) and a Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva, we went to the central market, which was mediocre (with the exception of the snake liquor I saw—it's basically a bottle with I think whiskey in it, plus a whole snake, or gecko, or what-have-you... Any creature that's small and nasty enough to put inside one of the bottles... I really wanted to buy some just because it's so gross, but they wouldn't have let me bring it on the ship because it's alcohol—oh well)... After that, I went with a handful of people to the mud bath and mineral water spa place that's nearby and enjoyed a $5 massage, a steam bath soak, then a mud bath in what looks like a hot tub that they fill with a new batch of mud for each party that sits in it (we got one for 6, which is how many of us there were), and it was so awesome. I found that you can float very easily in it and had lots of fun bouncing around in it after everyone else got out. Then, we rinsed off and went to the hot mineral pool, which was sooo relaxing. It was a very enjoyable experience. After that, we had a cultural evening which consisted of lots of seafood and some really cool live music that was so lovely to listen to. I dislike having to eat cephalopods like squid and octopus, and go figure, we got served that a lot, along with my all-time least favorite seafood, fish. Ick. So, that's essentially the only thing that I really, really didn't like about the trip. That's fine though! :-) That night, I got to have the room all to myself because I didn't have a roommate (yet), which was very nice—I haven't had a room all to myself in months! We woke up early that morning to go out on a boat to go to the Oceanographic Institute, which was basically an aquarium (that neglected to provide enough living space for those poor marine creatures...) and I got to touch a sea turtle (my once favorite animal... I now have no favorite animal because I love them all!), which was awesome. It nearly nipped my toes off because it thought that they were lunch :-P... Then, we drove over to an island on the boat to go snorkeling, which was a bomb because the masks they provided hurt my face so terribly that I sadly had to resort to reading Pride and Prejudice (that part wasn't so sad... I' m really enjoying reading that book!!!), rather than snorkeling, which I love to do and can't always do (and I can read any time I want to). Oh well. We then went to another island's beach, which was absolutely idyllic, and had lunch, which was gross and seafoody again... Then, we went back to the hotel, where I took a nap and then went out on the beach to read some more after having a very amazing ice cream with tons of fresh tropical fruit in it (yummy!). After that, we had dinner out and Mark, Setira, and I walked around looking for a jazz club to enjoy, and wound up at a DVD store instead and bought a whole bunch of them for less than a dollar each (yeyah!). I forgot to mention that the night before I went out on the beach with Jessie and Mark and we all talked about the amazing experiences we've had on SAS and whatnot. It was very enjoyable. After that, I went to bed in my smelly, moldy, hot room :-P Oh yeah, Xoa gave me a short ride to the restaurant on his motorbike, which was really fun. Next day, we flew back, and I had lunch with Mark and my Nha Trang roomie, NaKeesha (sp?), then took a nap, and then went out into HCM City on my own, but wound up hanging out with NaKeesha, where I looked into going to Mekong Delta that night on my own to get away and make myself go out on my own before the end of SAS. I really, really wanted to take a motorbike out there (2 ½ hour drive lol), but it was all just too expensive and last-minute, sadly. I went to Ben Thanh and spent some more money, and got some very nice chocolates for my homestay family in Japan (and got some for myself, too, of course!)... I also bought myself a beautiful, but simple, 100% silk black dress. It's sooo nice. I consider it a splurge on myself—and it was $30 lol. It's almost sickening how frugal I can be sometimes :-P... But, I figure that I have the money and I'm traveling around the world, so why not spoil myself sometimes? Anyway, that was great, and I came back expecting to go out with Kira and Caitlin, but they had already left, and I was going to go out on my own in my new silk dress and new super-beautiful ballet flats (hand-made and embroidered—they're so beautiful you guys!!!) and new shell necklace (it was an entirely Vietnamese outfit, and it felt so good to get all spiffed up!), but rather than going out on my own at night, I wisely decided that wasn't a good idea and invited Michael to come with me to get some dinner. We went to this "cajun" restaurant that was barely cajun at all, where I had beef fajitas (I thought it was hilarious because Michael's a vegetarian)... That was good (can't wait to have real Mexican food at home!!), and then we went back to the ship at about 11:30. Next day, I woke up at about 7:30 to go to breakfast on the ship with Kira and Caitlin, and then we high-tailed it to an internet cafe, where I skyped Mom, and it was sooo good to have a nice, long conversation with her. We then ran over to L'Apothecaire, the spa that Caitlin had a reservation at at 9:00 (we arrived at 9:30 on motorbikes—I LOVE those things!!!), and Kira and I signed up last-minute for facials, hot stone massages, and manicures and pedicures. I'm telling you guys, this was by far the. most. amazing. spa. EVER. I've never even seen a spa as nice as that one before, let alone get treated at one. Wow. The grounds were impeccable, as well as the service, products, and general decor. It all appealed to me so well, and I wish that we had one just like it at home, because I would go all the time. We spent 5 hours there—it was soooo nice. The hot stone massage was amazing and I felt like Jell-o afterwards, and then they gave me my facial and my skin looked superb afterwards, and then we all had our manicures and pedicures together in this very pleasant little room, sitting in very nice, hot pink lounging chairs. They had us shower and use the steam bath and sauna before beginning, which was very nice, and everything about it was just so incredible—including the price. For all of the things I did—tip included—it was $88, which is what the hot stone massage would have been alone at the very least back home in America (and the massage and facial were each about 70 minutes long)... I was so impressed. Man, I wish we had that back home!!! Anyway, I've decided that I really need to start getting facials about every 2-3 months because it really improved the appearance of my skin (it sadly didn't last long, though, because all the pollution and exhaust nastiness got sucked back onto my face after riding around more on the motorbikes... le sigh)... After that, we went to the tailor to pick up our dresses, which sadly didn't turn out exactly as we'd wanted (and still had to pay full price... urgh), and then went to the electronic district to look for some cheap external hard drives, but all of the ones that we found were even more expensive than they would have been in the US. Lame. After that, we went to Ben Thanh market one last time about an hour before it closed, where I bought a Vietnam shirt for myself (which will be worn with my Aladdin pants tomorrow :-D) and some various other things like that. I'm so glad that I was able to buy a North Face knockoff backpack, because I've been really needing some form (other than the one and only should bag I have with me) of carrying my stuff around with me, and I have already found it extremely useful (it was well worth the $5!)... We then went to a DVD store to buy some more cheap DVDs (yay!), and then bought more chocolate quickly before heading back to the ship on motorbikes. Enter my favorite and most funny Vietnam memory: our drivers were talking to us and started telling us something like 500,000 dong for something, and we assumed that they were talking about our ride to the ship, which was lame because we'd already agreed to $2 (about 32,000 dong) each to get there, so Caitlin and I were naturally very confused about why they had suddenly changed their minds and wanted us to pay this exorbitant fee to get to the ship... I was so convinced that they were trying to rip us off that I actually got off of the motorbike when we had stopped until Caitlin and I were asked by them, "Do you smoke?" and Caitlin was like, "Oh my God, Michelle, I think that they want to sell us marijuana!"... it had sounded like they were saying something that started with "m," and Caitlin and I thought it was soooo hilarious!!! I kept laughing about it the whole way to the ship because it was so ridiculous and sketchy. Ok, I'm really tired, but before I close this entry, I would like to note a little more about Vietnam: some of the products are decently affordable, but I have found that whenever people rave about how cheap the stuff's going to be in a country, it is never super cheap enough to be satisfactory to me (meaning that the stuff isn't all that much more cheap than it would be in the US); whole families will ride together on those little bitty motorbikes, which is terribly dangerous; you often see babies riding in their mother's arms in the motorbikes, which is again very dangerous (no car seat!), and I once saw a mom with a sleeping baby in one arm and she was driving the motorbike/moped with the other arm! Also, walking across the street is basically a toss-up... you have to walk across in the middle of traffic (quite thrilling), and sometimes you get sandwiched between two lanes of traffic, but it's not nearly as bad as it might seem because 1. the traffic is going relatively slow (slow enough to see you in time) because there is ALWAYS toooooonnnnns of traffic and 2. it's mostly motorbikes, which are more agile and quick at getting out of the way... Merging is a crazy business there and nobody looks, and everything just keeps on moving. You don't stop when you want to turn right, you just keep going and merging into traffic is incredibly successful that way (because everyone's on motorbikes). It was very interesting to see. Plus, it's been very disorienting because the Vietnamese drive on the right-hand side (haven't seen that in forever) and I keep finding myself wondering why we're driving on the wrong side! I might be a little confused when I first start driving again when I get back home... goodness. Well, I'm super tired. Much love to you all.
April 9, 2008: Day 70-something: China
I'm finding it harder and harder to stir up the desire in myself to write in this thing, but I know I would regret it later if I didn't. So, here goes...
Before I get to the part about China, I would first like to talk about today. I intended to "dance with the ellipticals," shall we say (working out is just too harsh a phrase and makes me now want to do it :-P), but when I realized that I lacked the clean clothes to do so, I decided to sleep in and not go to Global Studies. I heard it was pretty good, but oh well... I needed to sleep in, apparently, because I slept in until 11-ish. I finally dragged myself out of bed, showered, and attempted to update my drawing journal (so many journals of mine have to be updated!!! Urgh!), but then Teneya saw me and invited me to lunch with her. That was good, and then I went to my room after submitting my China photos to yearbook (I hope that they choose one of mine) quickly to get my things, and then I went to drawing class... That turned out to be a good class because all we did was show everyone one of our drawings from our journals and talk about them for a bit. It was neat to see everyone's drawings and hear about them and the corresponding experiences to those drawings. After that, I went to my room where Tricia was watching a movie—the same thing I'd wanted to do. She's sick, poor thing :-( I watched "Just Married," the Hindi version, basically... It was entirely in Hindi, with the exception of a few English phrases here and there, but I am very interested in their culture with arranged marriages, and I understood enough to get by... It was a very interesting view into their culture and I enjoyed it very much. After that, I went out to call the ryokan (inn) in Kyoto I want to stay at (they didn't answer... shoot. I'm not going to go if I don't have a place to stay, and apparently it's the cherry blossom festival and almost everything is booked :-( Why'd we have to go at this time of year? As much as I love cherry blossoms... oh well) and ran into Caitlin and Brittany, and talked with them for a while. I then went to my room to do a bunch of sink laundry and listen to music. I simply do not listen to enough music while on SAS, and it is quite sad for me. I wish that there could always be music playing, everywhere. I really feel like going to a very loud concert or something and just getting lost in the music, and dancing. I don't ever dance and that makes me sad, too. The only thing I dance with nowadays is the elliptical :-P Anyway, I went up to the 7th deck forward, where it had rained and it was very cold (I was only wearing a t-shirt but I didn't care), so nobody was up there—exactly what I wanted. I just needed to get away from people, and I still do. I've had enough of everybody on this ship, and there's nowhere I can escape and be free—I can hole myself up in my room but it often receives visitors, and why would I want to cage myself? I just wish I could go for a long walk in a park alone or something. It was so great to be up there, though, and it was just me, the ocean, the rocking ship, and my music. It was fantastic. I feel the infinity and oneness of everything around me when I go off on my own to watch the waves, and I get a thrill when the wind picks up and it brushes against me. I will miss being able to feel the way I do when I get to connect with the ocean the way I do, and I will definitely need to get on a speed boat on rocky waters after this, to feel the movement I have come to love while at sea. After that, I realized that I should probably eat, and here I am right now, in the dining hall, alone (thank goodness), but not really (there are so many loud people around me right now but they aren't bothering me, as I am listening to my music). All day today I have felt as much as yesterday the emptiness I have been experiencing, and I can't stop thinking about him (but I'm not trying to)... Well, I have to go to cultural pre-port for Japan, so I will update this later.
Later: 46,500 words. That's how many words are in this journal, and there are even more because there are a handful of entries that I didn't write in Word first (I've been saving my entries)... I'm in Global right now... urgh. Michael Buble just came on the speakers, and I'm dying to own his cd(s?). I must admit that I love his music. Anyway, yesterday I went to open mic night for the first time, and even told one of my stories. It was the kind of story, though, that isn't as funny unless you yourself were involved (I told my Forbidden City story—you will hear about it later, I promise!), and then I had a nice, fitful sleep... The ship has been rocking almost as badly as it had on the trek from Brazil to South Africa, and I'm sure it'll get worse after Japan. I feel that I am very lucky to have never felt seasick, and I've discovered that I have an iron stomach: this whole trip I've drunk sketchy water, eaten from the street vendors, etc., and barely used any Pepto Bismol as a preventative measure, and I haven't gotten sick at all! I've only gotten small-scale food poisoning once in my life (just before I left to go on this trip, actually), so maybe that boosted my immunity to possibly unsafe foods... Or, I've just gotten lucky! lol It's funny how people talk about having traveler's diarrhea—again—and it's no big deal on the ship because it's such a common occurrence... But on a pleasanter note, tomorrow we will be arriving in Kobe, Japan—I am convinced that it will be my favorite Asian port.
April 15, 2008
Hey guys. Man have the past handful of days been crazy! Here goes...
The last time I had updated I wasn't feeling too well—my stomach was unsettled and I thought that I just had to let it digest more, but after 3 hours of waiting for that to happen, I finally managed to make myself throw up in the hopes that I would feel better. I did, but then I threw up another time, and then another... Each time I threw up I got weaker and weaker, and I quickly realized that I had gotten food poisoning from the ship's food from lunch that day (I was feeling so unwell that I didn't eat dinner)... I was so dehydrated and drank the water that Teneya was so nice to keep getting for me from the other side of the ship in the dining halls, but threw it up right away. All night this continued, and it was the worst night of my whole life. Finally, the doctor came to my room to give me some anti-vomit pills, and I managed to keep one down and get about 4 hours of sleep until it started back up again. I finally begged for the shot that would make me stop vomiting—I would take anything at that point, even a needle in my arm... After I got the shot, it took about 5 times of throwing up for it to finally kick in. I must have vomited 15 times that night... I fell asleep in the hospital's infirmary room the morning that we arrived in Japan, and then was sent to my room to get some sleep in my own bed. After sleeping for a while, I had to get up again (not so easy because I was really weak, but I fortunately could drink water and hold it down, so I wasn't dehydrated—thank goodness...) to get cleared by the Japanese government, which meant getting off the ship and standing in long lines... ick. I waited in line for a while but couldn't stand any longer from exhaustion, so I asked the person behind me to preserve my spot, promising that I would come back when he got closer... When I sat down, though, a nice crewman from the ship saw that I wasn't feeling well and let me go through right then and there. I got back on the ship, and sadly, missed the whole first day of Japan for resting and sleeping. I had to force myself to eat, even though I was so, so scared to for fear of throwing up again. I didn't finally eat until the evening, when Teneya came to bring me up to the dining hall (I was still so weak that I had to take the elevator) to get some hot water for the cup of soup I had bought in another port (I'd missed dinner and didn't particularly want to eat the ship's food anyway for fear of getting sick again). I was very reluctant to eat it. I finally did, drank some more water, and went back to the room. I was so happy that I felt fine after eating—what a relief. I felt that I might not be able to go to my homestay the next day because I still felt unwell and weak, so I left a note for the field office director, warning him that I wasn't planning on going. I slept well that night, and when I woke up, I felt much better and could move around on my own almost completely normally, and could stand for a while without feeling exhausted, so I was able to do the homestay. Yay! I met them that morning and my "mom"'s name was Ikue, my Dad's Kenichiro, and my "little brother"'s name was Kunimi (which I think is an adorable and endearing name—I like it a lot). We went to sushi with another homestay family, whose SAS "daughter" was Stephanie, a nice girl I was acquainted with. I was kind of nervous about eating sushi just after having had food poisoning, so I just ate shrimp sushi and I had a slice of melon. I didn't have to eat much, which was fortunate—I lacked an appetite the whole time I was on the homestay thanks to the lasting effects of the food poisoning... Anyway, the place we went to for sushi was casual but cool because it had sushi plates on a conveyor belt that goes right past where you are sitting so you can grab anything that you want from it. Also, the color plate it on indicated if it had wasabi on it: yellow if it has it, white if it doesn't. It was yummy and a fun experience. I was very tired and this point, though, so we went to Ikue's apartment for a nap, where I slept on a futon. It was quite comfortable, and I took a nap next to Kunimi, their little 2 year old boy. Something that confused me was the fact that they were still letting this 2 year old breastfeed, and to be honest, it really bothered me. As it turns out, a lot of Japanese parents are pushovers and let their children do as they please, so if they still want to breastfeed at age 2, then they will go with it. I personally think it's wrong to let a child breastfeed at such an old age, hence it bothered me—really, really bothered me. Anyway, we then did origami together, where Kenichiro explained to me that boys don't do origami—only girls. Boys make paper airplanes. My homestay parents spoke really good English. I then helped Ikue make one of the many different kinds of sushi—sushi isn't just the rolls, apparently. The sushi we made is essentially rice mixed with some unidentifiable pickled vegetables, which was good. We made it for the potluck that night with a whole bunch of other homestay families in the area. That get-together was kind of weird—They're all members of the Hippo Family Club, which is learning foreign languages and cultures, but it was weird because when we got there, they were doing these awkward dances/singing along to cds—it was very similar to the Hokey Pokey (which we, sadly, also did :-P)... Then, we all sat down in a circle and they spoke into a microphone, introducing themselves in foreign languages. It was cool that they knew them so well, but it was weird because one person would be speaking, and it seemed like everyone else knew exactly what they were going to say because they would say it along with them, and it seemed kind of cultish because they were all so extra happy. It was just weird, I dunno how to explain it... Anyway, we finally ate, and the food was really good. I enjoyed it a lot. Then, we went to the top of Rokko Mountain, which is nearby, to see the night view of Kobe. It was really beautiful, and a bit chilly. We then decided to do the real, original Japanese karaoke! It was lots of fun. They call it doing it in a "box," not a bar like we Americans do: you rent a room for however long you want to (we did it with another big homestay family) and it has a projector screen, loudspeakers, 2 microphones, and a thing that you use to queue the songs you want to sing. They had plenty of Japanese and American songs to choose from. I sang "Truly, Madly, Deeply" by Savage Garden and "Wannabe" by the Spice Girls with Stephanie, and sang "Hotel California" by the Eagles with Stephanie and Blake. It was lots of fun. We then went to sleep, and the next day, we went to an onsen (public bath/hot spring) in the mountains (on my request... I'm not sure why I requested to do it with my family when I was aware that it involved getting naked...). Yes, naked. In front of every other woman bathing at the onsen. They obviously don't care. But it was awkward for me. But, I figured, when in Japan, do as the Japanese do! I went in with my mom (again, kind of awkward...), and it was so hot that I couldn't even stay in for 10 minutes. That was nice, and killed my appetite, so when we went for a nice Japanese lunch, I could only have a salad (and had maybe 5 bites before I was full). After that, we went back to their apartment, where I tried to make sleeping arrangements for that night in Kyoto, but it didn't work out so I wound up not spending the night there (I'm glad I didn't because I was super tired and needed proper rest in my own bed). Random observation: the apartment my "family" lived in was very energy and space efficient. It was also well made but with cheap materials. It was interesting to see that, because I know such accommodations are necessary in a highly populated country like Japan. I really didn't feel like Japan was overcrowded, though. It felt just like being in a big city in America—lots of people but no big deal. I felt that Japan and America are two very similar countries (with the exception of our cultures being exceedingly different, but the economy, general welfare of the population, cleanliness, etc were the same). They definitely have the whole public transportation thing down, though, which we most definitely do not. I envy their ability to take an affordable train ride to far-away places, with less environmental impact because they use public transportation. I imagine I would take little day trips to places all over the area if I had that available to me. I wish so much that we had those trains in America. Plus, they're super fast (this isn't even talking about the bullet trains—I never rode one while there, but the trains they use for local use are as fast as rollercoasters—one zipped by when I was standing in the train station and it startled me as much as if I was next in line to get on Deja Vu at Six Flags!), so you get there at a very decent time, especially if you take a limited express, which will only stop at select stops, rather than each and every one. Anyway, we then went to Yoko (Ikue's friend)'s house to don some real kimono!!! As it turns out, kimono cost a couple thousand dollars each, so I thought that I wasn't going to be able to get one... Anyway, it was so meaningful to me to be able to wear one—I didn't even ask to, so it was very kind of them to offer it. They sure do tie the obis tightly, but I'm sure it's nothing compared to wearing a corset. After we all got dressed, we got to do a tea ceremony (so cool!!! Got it on tape ;-)), which was such an honor to be a part of. I got to see and experience for myself a handful of the things that geisha do and wear on this trip, so it was really special to me. We then hung out together and ate weird and slightly unappetizing Japanese sweets (they're really into jellies and unpleasant consistencies in their food, especially with their sweets), and had chocolate, and talked. It was very nice. They then brought us back to the ship. I then went out with Caitlin in search of some sake and dinner, and we went into downtown Kobe via train (only two stops and $2) and wound up at an interesting little restaurant. We got our own table that was kind of separated from everyone else, and got a bottle of sake each to share. They were both way too sweet and I couldn't drink them—at first I really liked it, but after about 3 sips I thought it was nasty. I also really wanted to try Kobe beef, which is the world's most deliciously amazing beef, apparently, but oddly enough, it was hard to find a place that had it—in Kobe, for goodness sake... lol so silly. Anyway, I had some udon and passion fruit ice cream. It was a nice evening with some really good company and conversation, and then I went to bed around 1 am. I intended to wake up at about 8 to leave for Kyoto by myself, but didn't manage to get up until 9:30 because I was absolutely exhausted. It was the last day in Japan, but even so, it was so hard to get out of bed. Anyway, I got out of there, and it is so nice and convenient that the train station is almost right next to where we were docked, so it didn't take me long to get there—I left at about 10:30 am. I got to downtown Kobe at Sannomiya station, got a little confused about where to go but finally got on my way, and then had about a 50 minute train ride to Juso, where I switched trains, and then had a total of an hour and a half ride to get to Kyoto. I felt so adventurous being out on my own and going to the one place in Japan I wanted to go to most: the city of geisha. I enjoyed listening to my iPod and watching the people on the train. Random observation: the Japanese women are some of the most best-dressed ladies I've ever seen in my life by far (they rival the Italians!). They always wear heels and they're really into business chic. They're all so beautiful, too, but I must say that I noticed that a lot of women (and probably men but it's not like they had their legs showing) were bow-legged and/or had especially thick calves that caused them to look really awkward. It was weird—I guess it's kind of an ethnic deformity or something. Anyway, I finally got to Kyoto and strolled down the busy main street, Shijo-dori, toward Gion, the geisha district. I had a delicious tempura Japanese lunch all by myself ($21 overlooking the river... It's ridiculous how much everything costs in Japan, I really hate that about it), and then got my ticket for the geisha's annual cherry blossom festival. The theme this year was the Tale of Genji. Then, having two hours to kill, I walked around and got some green tea ice cream, which was good, and did a little shopping. I also visited a big orange temple, which was really cool to see. After that, I figured I'd loop around and get off the main strip to see some other part of Kyoto that isn't Shijo-dori (aka big, fancy, expensive products and hotels). I wound up in an antique kimono shop, where the nice shopkeeper asked me where I was from, and then gave me a very good discount on a kimono I wanted: from 5,000+ yen down to 3,000 yen, without me asking (a difference of $20—so, my kimono cost $30, when a brand new full kimono set would cost $1,000 at least) and I got a pretty plain orange obi to go with it. Sweet :-) Before I left, he gave me a cute little cell phone charm (everyone—even the men—have cell phone charms... It's adorable)—he was so nice! I then eventually wound up in an antiques store, where I bought two matching teacups (that didn't look very antique but I liked them anyway), another teacup/tiny bowl, and several small paintings, some with calligraphy, some with a flower or a scene. They're really cool. I then headed back to Gion Corner to go see the geisha dance, which was absolutely wonderful to see (I cried a little), and I sat in the unreserved seats in the very back on "tatami" mats (aka pillowy pads... not real tatami mats, but these, I'm sure, are much more comfortable than tatami mats, so I'm not complaining)... I snuck a few pictures and video here and there, even though we weren't supposed to, so I am happy to have some documentation of it. It was so awesome. Geishas move so smoothly and elegantly, and they can keep their balance and hold a move quite impressively. Their fans alone must have cost $500 each, and who knows how much each kimono cost. I wish I would have one of them. Maybe someday when I'm a famous millionaire :-P anyway, after that I haunted the street that is lined with the 17th-century teahouses that the geisha go to for engagements in the early evening (they go to them around 6, so it was perfect timing) until I could catch a glimpse of one... I saw two young women dressed as geisha, but I am convinced that they were not real geisha because they were just standing around and letting people take pictures of them. A real geisha doesn't just stand around and do nothing—they always have something to do and don't have time to be harassed by tourists. I took pictures of them, anyway, in case I didn't see a real one. After about 10 minutes after that, I caught a glimpse of a meiko (apprentice geisha) up a side street, shoved people aside to get to her, and took pictures like a fiend, even following her until she made it to her destination: a teahouse on the main street. It was so unbelievably exciting for me. She was so pretty, too. I admit that I cried with happiness after that—it was one of the things that I wanted to do before I died and I got to see one! They're dying out, too, so who knows if I'll ever be able to see one again? It was soooo amazing. Next time I come to Kyoto, I want to dress up like a geisha (you can do it at this one shop for about $60... I just didn't have time nor an appointment :-(...). I then left on the train to get back to Kobe, arrived around 8 pm, scrambled to get some stamps for my millions of postcards, and got back on the ship by 8:45—15 minutes until I had to be on the ship before I would get dock time in Hawaii, our next port. The next day, we had already set sail and the seas got super rough. I didn't do much except go to drawing class (we did middle tone... again...) and sign up with Caitlin and Kira for the Ambassador's Ball dinner—we signed up for the later one at 8 pm. Teneya and everyone else signed up for a whole table with no room for us, which was fine with me... whatever. I'm going to have filet mignon! Yum! They also give you a glass of champagne for a champagne toast. It's going to be so much fun. Anyway, today—the second April 15th (we crossed the International Date Line last night!)—I slept in through Global Studies because last night the seas were so ridiculously rough that I hardly got any sleep... Then, I had to go meet with the food manager to talk about me possibly have gotten food poisoning from the ship's food, where they made a big deal about it... They had gathered up the nurse and doctor that I had seen that night and everything, but as nobody else got the same symptoms, it couldn't have been food poisoning. I'm still convinced that it had something to do with the ship's food, so Doc Brown said that I probably reacted to it weirdly. The lady that was the hotel manager who was there, too, acted toward me like I was a threat or something—I wasn't trying to rain on her parade, I just wanted to get to the bottom of the problem and find a solution. My solution is that I will be a vegetarian (with the exception of at the Ambassador's Ball lol) for the rest of the voyage... Doc said it was a viral infection. I have never reacted so violently to a viral infection but whatever. I just don't want it happen ever, ever again!!! Well, it's time for me to get ready for class, so I'm out. Love you guys!
Michelle